When you come to the Dolomites for winter walking, it’s with the intention of having spellbinding snow-streaked peaks that are unlike anything else in the Alps as your constant companion. But with impenetrable cloud and heavy rain forecast, it was hard not to feel deflated.
Then again, this was Italy, where it’s easy to make the best of things whatever the weather. And the 3 Zinnen Dolomites ski resort and nature park – right on Italy’s border with Austria, about two-and-a-half hours north of Venice, is always charming, with the usual jumble of cultures you see in South Tyrol. Part Italian, it’s more Austrian thanks to the legacy of the Habsburgs, who ruled this part of Italy until 1918. Hence most places have an Austrian and an Italian name, 3 Zinnen or Tre Cime (meaning three peaks) being a case in point. It’s the home of Ladin, an ancient Romance language, too.
Of the five villages that make up 3 Zinnen Dolomites, I was staying in the largest, San Candido (or Innichen), which looked as Austrian as could be – onion-domed church and pastel-coloured, richly detailed houses you would see in Salzburg. Even under leaden skies, it was a pretty place, its pedestrianised centre filled with classy shops selling cashmere and leather goods and, happily, an impressive number of delis stocking high-quality (but not necessarily high-priced) regional food. The sort that makes you want to move to Italy.
Keeping an eye on the weather was simple from my balcony at Hotel Leitlhof overlooking San Candido, with a view of the village’s ski slope and snippets of the Dolomites between the clouds. All five villages are connected by bus and some by train, with links to 3 Zinnen’s various ski areas, cross-country ski trails and high-altitude walking trails that don’t even require snowshoes.
One of those buses took me to Signaue, where I caught glimpses of faintly blue sky as the cable car whizzed me up to Stiergarten at 2,100m. Turning my back on the skiers at the top, I followed a signposted walking trail that took me slowly back down the mountain. The only other prints in the fresh snow were of a four-legged creature, possibly a hare or a fox. Occasionally, the clouds would swirl and a rugged peak would poke into view before being obscured again. But in this winter wonderland, those atmospheric clouds were playing as much of a starring role as the mountains they were shrouding.
The only sound was my boots in the snow as I descended into pine woods. Light snow was falling again and it whetted my appetite for lunch at Skihütte Henn-Stoll (or Baita Pollaio) at the foot of the cable car. I fell on a plate of Knödel/canederli – dumplings packed with cheese and melted butter served with a cabbage salad flavoured with caraway seeds. This was classic Ladin mountain comfort food.
March’s longer days meant the sun hadn’t quite set on San Candido when it was time for the early-evening passeggiata and aperitivo. Thrillingly, it actually made an appearance, bringing a warm glow to the mountains rising behind those beautiful Austrian-style houses before dusk exposed the full moon to midnight-blue skies. Pure magic.
The next morning I took the bus to the cable car in the neighbouring village of Versciaco (Vierschach), another 3 Zinnen ski area. At Helm (or Monte Elmo), I stumbled into Narnia: a trail through pine woods. It was soothing to shuffle gently through the snow and think about lunch.
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At the rear of Helm Restaurant, beyond the self-service area, was the gourmet section, which was only about 10% more expensive and a lot quieter. Chunky ridged swirls of maccheroncini pasta came with a veal ragù, porcini and a dusting of hazelnuts, and the South Tyrolean rye flatbread called Schüttelbrot which zinged with fennel and cumin. The robust flavours were a perfect match for the misty mountains.
Opening the curtains on my last morning was like waking up on Christmas Day. Snow had covered everything. I was on the bus to Val Fiscalina to follow a trail through larch forests. As it was Saturday, I seemed to have been joined by half the population, all apparently with the same destination – Talschlusshütte, a charmingly rustic restaurant in the woods (open Christmas to Easter). I had been warned not to be late and lose my table; since San Candido local boy Jannik Sinner became the world No 1 tennis player and word went out that his father had been the chef at Talschlusshütte, the restaurant’s popularity has soared, even if Sinner Senior is no longer in the kitchen.
Whoever was in the kitchen knew how to make a mean bacon knödel and the clear herby broth it was served in. The penne with the house ragù of aubergines, courgettes and mushrooms was piled high, turning me into a contented dumpling.
Buoyed up by grappa that tasted more like herby génépi, I walked back to the bus. The clouds were on the move. I turned round to catch a glimpse of a mountain, then another, then another. Finally, just hours before I was to go home, the 3 Zinnen – or Tre Cime, three peaks – revealed themselves in all their jagged glory. I whooped in joy, then turned round again and they were gone.
This trip was provided by 3 Zinnen Dolomites. Doubles at Hotel Leitlhof start at €287 half-board